Me Made Dress 

Hello friends, Hope you have a lovely day. 

Today I’m gonna be sharing with you my me made dress. I made it in August, can’t believe we’re into September already. This month is going so quickly. I made so many things last month but little busy and lazy to post my makes. I preferred to make this dress for so many reasons. First, it’s quite warm weather at the moment and we’re going into the summer. Second, all pattern pieces are ready and already made one dress with this self drafted pattern. And third, I wanted to make a dress (don’t need any reasons for all dresses) and fabric was just enough for dress.


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I saw this fabric in local fabric store and just kind of fell in love with it on the spot. This dress has higher neckline at both sides, princess line bodice, sleeveless and midi length half circle skirt. I’ve just done a white cotton lawn for the lining of it and also chose to line my skirt as well just because this fabric is just little bit too sheer, so I just used the same white cotton lawn.

It is so comfortable to wear, really lovely to make. I really enjoyed the whole process of making it. And I very pleased with the result. I definitely make another same dress very soon with my favourite fabric.

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 Thanks for your time. See you next week until Happy Sewing ✂️

 

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Twirly Whirly Summer Dress

Pretty, comfortable and so simple to make, this adorable dress is perfect for spinning around spring and summer. All you need is just one pattern piece of bodice.

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I used my self drafted children’s basic bodice block. I cut the pattern around 1″ bellow the waist line with slight curve and added seam allowance. The fabric I have chosen is light weight cotton with white embroidery. I combined it with two matching embroidery fabrics for fun. I used 2mtrs of fabric for this dress. For front bodice, I cut 1 shell fabric + 1 lining on fold. And back side has button closure so cut 2 shell fabric + 2 lining. For ruffles, I roughly measured the waist line of both front and back pieces. It was 27″. There is a typical formula for ruffles. 1.5 times of measurement. For first layer : 27 * 1.5 = 40.5″. Second layer : 40.5 * 1.5 = 60.75″. Third layer : 61 * 1.5 = 91.5″

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Closed the shoulder seam of shell fabric and lining and ironed the seam apart then placed shell fabric and lining right side together and sewed neck line.

I cut extra seam allowance, snipped it around and under stitch it on lining side for neater finish. Same did with armholes . Turn right side out and gave a good press.

Then I sewed side seam. And the bodice was ready.

Preparing Skirt :

I prepared my strips by sewing gathering stitches along one long edge of each one, at 3/8″ from the edge. Then I divided all layers into four parts and marked it with pins. I took first layer and second layer, matched the pin mark then pin it right side together. Pulled on the gathering stitches until all of the excess fabric is evenly distributed along the edge, excluding the ½” seam allowance at the beginning and end of layers. I sewed all of them. I finished all edges with my serger.


I sewed cummerbund on bodice followed by skirt. I measured waist again for skirt lining and I made circle skirt instead of gathers for lining to reduce the bulk from waist.



I serged all raw edges, closed center back seam in skirt then sewed button placket. I put matching plastic snaps and bottom hem finished with rolled hem for store bought look, having a serger is the main benefit. To be honest I’m little lazy about hemming.


And the twirly whirly dress was ready to beat the heat in summer.

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Thanks for your time. Happy Sewing.

Burda 7080

Hello everyone,

Recently, I bought Burda 7080 pattern. It is a winter and summer combo. View A It is perfect for winter. It has wide collar, long sleeve, box pleats skirt and jacket style bodice which attracted me to buy. I will definitely make this dress later for next winter. In view B, the bodice has french darts, boat neck and box pleats skirt, which I made for this summer.

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There were few changes I made to the pattern. I shortened the bodice length because my natural waist is little bit higher than the pattern. It has bigger armholes (it’s normal) and I like smaller so raised 1 inch up for close fitting. And it has side zipper which annoys me so I shifted to the back. That’s all my alterations.

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Pattern pieces look same as bodice block draft. If you are not familiar with making your own bodice block, this pattern will help you. Very easy and very basic pattern.

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I made this dress with white printed rayon which I bought from my recent trip to India. It reminds me of lovely time I spent there. It has neck and armhole facing but fabric is slightly see through so lined it whole bodice. Skirt has  three box pleats at front and three at back and wide hemline. Again it took my two afternoons to make.

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Thanks for your time. Happy Sewing.

Last minute Ladybug costume

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Last Monday, Kashvi had assembly in the school. In the assembly, teacher announced that book fair parade is on Wednesday which means I had only one afternoon to make a costume. And with toddler, it is bit challenging.

I checked Kashvi’s dresses to see if I can do something out of them like princess costumes. I found golden pinkish dress which is perfect for sleeping beauty costume but she wanted something else.

So I headed to my stash box to see what I can make. In my stash, I found red and black sateen so I gave her two more options to be mini mouse or ladybug. Finally, she decided to be ladybug.

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I made rectangle skirt without belt so I can reuse this fabric later, stitched it around a waist and insert an elastic. For spots, I used iron on interfacing for perfect rounds joined with sleep stitches.

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For wings, I stitched thick sew on interfacing for more stiffness.

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I didn’t have black or red pipe cleaners for antennas so that I made wide rouleau loop to insert pipe cleaners. I attached black fur balls at top and tied those to black hair band and antenna band was ready.

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Thank you for your time. Happy Sewing.

 

Spring is here (Self drafted dress)

Hello everyone, I hope you are having a nice day.

August is almost over and here in Australia, officially spring time is 1st of September. It’s time of more sunshine, more daylight, whales, blooming flowers, rain, and more outings.

The best thing to do at this time of the year is to go outside in comfort and style. And for that reason I made this self drafted dress. It has a princess line but with this busy print fabric you can’t see it properly. I used Winifred’s bodice block so no need to do alterations (in some easy pattern I like self drafted instead ready pattern) or toile, cut it straightaway with big rounded square front neck and deep v neck at back.

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I used cotton fabric which my mum bought for me years ago. For some reason, I couldn’t make it and it stayed in my stash for years. Now kids are bigger and getting more time for myself (only in the afternoon) so I decided to make this dress, it took only two afternoons, very quick. isn’t it?

Bodice is fully lined, it is easy to do neck and armhole facing at same time. I had only 2 meters of fabric so gathered skirt was only an option. I was very afraid of putting the invisible zippers before but after watching Marina Brumpton’s tutorial, I am very confident with zippers and I’m really happy with the result.

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Thanks for your time. Happy Sewing.

Refashion Skirt

Probably the quickest thing I made this week. It is this little coral colour skirt, refashioned from dress.IMG_0776

IMG_0777Okay, this project is really easy and super fun to do.

Basically, I marked 3.5 cm up from waist line, cut it off the bodice, restitched the princess seam and back dart and then serged the edge. I attached skirt lining at waist line.

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For Casing, Cut off the zip 2cm up from waist line, fold it around half centimetre inside and hand stitched it.

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I folded down the waist band around 1.5 cm, pulled over the side, pinned it and stitched it from down to up side. Ironed the waist band all around then I stitched in ditch, and the skirt is ready.

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Thanks for your time. Happy Refashioning.

 

 

Children’s bodice block (easy way)

This is very useful, easy to make block for simple as well as fancy dresses. It will help you to make endless designs. You can use this block for woven as well as knit fabric after few changes.

Some measurements you will need:

  • Shoulder
  • Chest
  • Waist
  • Hips
  • Neck width
  • Scye depth
  • Shoulder to waist
  • Waist to hips

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Square down and across from 0.

0 – 1   Scye depth. Square across

0 – 2   Shoulder to waist. Square across

2 – 3   Waist to hips. Square across

0 – 4   Half of shoulder. Square down mark 5.

1 – 6   Chest + 3″ ease / 4

2 – 7   Waist + 3″ ease / 4

3 – 8   Hips + 3″ ease / 4

Join 6 ,7 and 8.

1/2″ square down from point 4. Mark 9.

0 – 10   Half neck width. Join 9 to 10.

0 – 11   1″.  Or depend on how deep do you want your back neck. Draw neck curve.

0 – 12   3″.  Or depend on how deep do you want your front neck. Draw neck curve.

5 – 13   1/2″ inward. Mark point 13. Join 9 to 13.

Draw armhole curves.

Sleeve Draft:

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From 0 square down.

0 – 1  sleeve length. Square across

0 – 2. 1/8 chest. Square across

0 – 3  1/2 armhole round. (From bodice block) Take measurements round the curve with tape upright.

Mark midpoint of 0 – 3, mark point 4

From point 4, 1/3″ upward perpendicular to 0 – 3 mark point 5

Join 0, 4 and 3 Draw front sleeve curve.

Join 0, 5 and 3 Draw back sleeve curve.

1 – 6  1/2 bicep  + 1/2″ ease

Join 4 and 6.

Both blocks need to add appropriate seam allowances.

Thanks for your time. I hope you enjoyed reading this post. Please let me know your suggestions/feedback using following comment section.

From Fabric Treasure chest …

While arranging my sewing space, I found few fabrics which I would like to make something from, but haven’t had enough time or not right idea to make. So from onward, I will try to use make outfit(hopefully gorgeous) using any of the following fabrics.

Cool Rayon:

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Rayon

I am planning to make simple princess line dress with floral fabric very soon and shirt with long sleeves with pink polka dot fabric but not have plans for other two fabrics.

Cotton:

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Cotton

I’m going to make skirt from Hello Kitty fabric for my daughter and planning to make teared dress from peachy chicken fabric for next summer. Batik print is for long slit dress and already made one dress from big red flower fabric. I have couple of designs some designs for them.

Texture fabric:

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Texture

Love all colour, tomato red tissue brasso, purple net with flower motifs (made one dress for my daughter), other white cotton brasso, Printed mocha net which is my favourite, tomato red glass tissue, hot pink georgette and sky blue and gold textured net. All are for special occasions dresses.

Silk:

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Silk

Soft gaji silk is very famous for royalty ( Blue fabric with motifs) quite expensive than other. Orange paper silk with beautiful golden embroidery and some printed soft sateen.

Now it’s time for them to go to my wardrobe from sewing room.

Thanks for your time. Happy Sewing.

How to take children’s body measurements

How to measure your kid so that you can make cloths fit perfectly. Not every kid is average, not every kid fits inside the standard measurement charts.


Horizontal measurements:

  • Shoulder – left shoulder bone to right shoulder bone on back side.
  • Chest – around armpits over the highest part of chest.
  • Waist – around narrowest part of waist.
  • Hips – around fullest part of hips.
  • Neck width – half of neck front
  • Bicep -around fullest part of upper arm.

Vertical measurements:

  • Shoulder to waist
  • shoulder to chest
  • Waist to hips
  • Shoulder to knee
  • Full length
  • Arm length

 Taking body measurements is relatively easy. Just take a measurement tape and follow the above guidelines, you will have proper measurements. I hope this will help in some or the other way.

Thanks for your time. Please let me know your thoughts in comment section. 

All about my basic bodice blocks and muslins

Basic bodice block is a base of any garment. Various kinds of garments like shirts, jackets, coats, dresses, blouses can be made using basic bodice block along with basic sleeve block. In fashion industry, there are many methods of making these blocks i.e. Winifred’s matric pattern cutting, Burda style, Intituto Di Moda Burgo style etc. The methods are slightly different from each other, but the end result is almost same.

Basic bodice block has no style line and seam allowance. You should add extra ease allowance depending on your garment. Undergarments, swimsuits don’t need any ease allowance. Dresses, shirts, blouses need ease allowance and other garments like jackets, coats need more ease allowance for better comfort.

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Aldrich’s Bodice Block
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Aldrich’s Bodice Sloper
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Intituto Di Moda Burgo Block

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Intituto Di Moda Burgo Sloper

You can get desired fitting by using muslin. Make any required fitting adjustments and transfer them to the pattern so that the real garment fits well without any adjustment. I made this sloper from white poly cotton fabric. Normally it is made from muslin, but I didn’t have it at that time. In this block, I only added side seam and shoulder seam allowance.

When I made this sloper for the very first time, I thought it is a dress pattern and sewed a dress without any finalisation. It looked very silly like a tent. After that I realised the importance of this block. I can make almost all designs using it, I just need to add few stylelines and dart manipulations as per the design.

I used Winifred Aldrich’s pattern cutting book extensively during my study. Since last 10 years, I have made many dresses, blouses and shirts using Aldrich’s basic block. There is another book called Il Modellismo from Milan University which is also good for preparing basic bodice block.

Thanks for your time. I hope you enjoyed reading this post. Please let me know your suggestions/feedback using following comment section.